Brush Up on Sofa Glossary

A sofa is made up of many different parts. And all these different parts can vary from sofa to sofa, giving each a distinct look. Do you know how to identify each one? It helps to know so that you can describe the sofa you want to a salesperson or designer.

Sofa Arms

• English arms: These low sofa arms are set back from the front edge of the seat. English arms are very low profile and suitable if you like to take naps on your sofa. They are also good for small spaces as they don't project beyond the body of the sofa.

• Lawson arms: A low profile, modestly scaled version of the rolled arm.
• Pleated arm: When the front part of a sofa arm is covered by fabric that is continued from the inside of the arm.
• Rolled arms: A very common traditional shape for sofa arms, a rolled arm curves outward. Although comfortable for lounging and reading, rolled arms do take up extra space, so take them into account when measuring the sofa.
• Square arms: Also called box arms. These give a more modern and tailored look as they have straight lines and angles. These are useful for when you entertain, as they can serve as seats. However, they are not as comfortable as rolled arms for lounging.
• Tuxedo arms: Tuxedo arms are slightly flared arms that have the same height as the back.

Sofa Backs

• Attached back: The back cushions are attached or sewn to the back of the sofa. The advantage is that they don't move around and you don't have to worry too much about keeping them in shape.
• Camel Back: This traditional sofa back is shaped much like a camel's hump, raised in the middle, and sloping down lower at the ends. A traditional and formal style.

• Channel back: Deep vertical grooves on a tight back distinguish this sofa back.
• Loose-cushion: In this case cushions are separate from the sofa back as opposed to attach back sofas.This allows for covers to be easily removed for cleaning.
• Curved back: The back curves all the way around so that it forms one solid piece with the arms, which are not attached separately.
• Pillow back: A pillow back sofa has more pillows than seat cushions, and therefore a softer feel. This style offers comfort which can also be adjusted by moving the pillows around. It does require more upkeep however.
• Tight back: A tight back in a sofa is upholstered, but does not have loose cushions. The back has a firm feel, and can provide a clean, tailored and formal look.
• Waterfall back: This kind of a sofa back has two or more vertical layers of gathered and billowing cushions that are attached to the back.

Sofa Seats

• Cushioned Seat: A cushioned seat is usually made up of two or three cushions. Since these cushions are made to support the weight of the sitter, they are usually firmer than back cushions. The cushions may be square or rectangle depending on the the number of cushions on the seat. Sometimes the end cushions are T-shaped to accommodate the arm. Covers are removable.
• Single cushion seat: Oftentimes the sofa seat will have just a single cushion. This is also called a bench seat. The look can be clutter free and minimal, but can also be combined with a pillow back. A good single cushion will not rise up on the other end when you sit down at the other.
• Tight seat: Sofas also come without any cushions on the seat. This look can be found both on traditional and modern sofas, or sofas with wood frames.It is a formal look.

Sofa Construction

• Deck: The surface that lies directly underneath the seat cushions on a sofa.
• Down-proof ticking: The inner lining of a cushion, usually tightly woven, which helps tiny feathers from moving to a cushion's exterior.
• Eight-way hand tied springs: When springs are connected to the adjoining ones with a strong twine that runs front to back, side to side and then diagonally in both directions. It helps tie each spring securely.
• Filling: Foam, down and padding that is used to make the sofa comfortable.
• Frame: A frame determines the bones of a sofa, and not just the shape, but also the quality. Quality sofas have kiln-dried hardwood frames, and joints are strong and reinforced.
• Plinth base: A box base for upholstered furniture, instead of legs. This is often found on contemporary sofas.
• Webbing: Interwoven strips of synthetic material, attached to the wood frame of a sofa

Guide to Upholstery Fibers - Synthetic Fibers

Synthetic fibers or polymers such as microfiber, are the most extensively used group of fibers in modern upholstery. There are endless possibilities in textures, colors and patterns with these fibers. As a rule they also hold up well to all kinds of wear and tear.

Acetate

Acetate is a synthetic fiber made from cellulose acetate.

• Acetate has a luxurious look and feel, with strong luster, and a good ability to take dyes.

• Acetate is resistant to shrinkage, wrinkling, and mildew, but does not resist solvents or abrasion.
• Acetate is used extensively in blends to impart softness and luster. It is also found in novelty fabrics, lining and taffetas.
• It is easily cleaned with soap and water, or dry cleaning.

Acrylic

Acrylic fibers are also man made and include such brand names as Orlon, Acrilan, Dolan and Dralon.

• Soft, wooly and natural to feel, acrylic is used to create plush velvets.
• Acrylic fabrics are quick drying and resistant to sunlight, fading, mildew and insects. However, they are not flame-retardant.
• Acrylics make excellent outdoor fabrics.
• To clean, either wash with soap and water or dry-clean.

Nylon

Nylon is the generic name for a group of chemically related fibers and was introduced by DuPont in 1939.

• It dyes and drapes well, and has a good luster.
• Nylon is very durable as it is extremely resistant to abrasion. It does a terrific job of resisting mildew, insects and wrinkling, but has poor resistance to sunlight.

• It is extensively used to create velvets, woven fabrics and knits.
• You can either dry-clean or wash it.

Olefin

Olefin is derived from petroleum, and can mimic wool in appearance.

• It resists moisture, mildew, chemicals and abrasion. It is sensitive to heat and if not treated properly, it can be damaged by sunlight.
• Flat woven fabrics and velvets are made from olefin.
• It lends itself to being washed as well as being dry-cleaned.

Polyester and Microfiber

Polyester was also introduced by DuPont in the 1950’s. Microfiber, which has increased in popularity over the years, is a blend of polyester and polyamide.

• In appearance polyester fabrics can range from bright to dull sheen, and a crisp to soft feel.
• It is strong and durable with good resistance to abrasion. It stands up well to sunlight, mildew and insects. Traditional polyester can be subject to pilling and soil easily. However, microfiber has excellent resistance to soiling and wrinkling.
• Polyester blends beautifully with other fibers, such as cotton, and can have a silk like appearance. It is also used in outdoor fabrics. li]Stains can be easily cleaned with solvents or detergents.

How to Remove Hair Dye Stains from Clothes, Upholstery and Carpet

Hair dye can accomplish great things on your head, but not on your clothes. If you have a messy hairdresser or you are a do-it-yourself dripper, learning how to remove hair dye stains from washable fabrics is a must.

Different hair dye colors require slightly different treatments. The key to successful removal is to treat the stain as quickly as possible and keep the stain removal supplies on hand.

If the garment is labeled dry clean only, point out and identify the stain to your professional cleaner. If you decide to use a home dry cleaning kit, be sure to treat the stain with the provided stain remover before putting the garment in the dryer bag.

How to Remove Black, Brown or Blue Hair Dye Stains From Clothes

When you discover that drip of dye, as soon as possible, rub heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent (top performers are Persil, Wisk and Tide) into the stain using a soft brush and then rinse well. Fill a sink with cool water and add oxygen-based bleach (OxiClean, Tide Oxi, Country Save Bleach, Purex 2 Color Safe Bleach) following package directions. Submerge the garment and allow it to soak at least eight hours or overnight. If the stain is gone, launder as usual. If slight traces remain, repeat the process with a fresh oxygen bleach/water solution.

If the stain remains and the garment is white, mix a solution of one gallon water and 1/4 cup chlorine bleach. Allow the garment to soak for 15 minutes - no longer.

Prolonged soaking can weaken fabric. Rinse well with plenty of cool, fresh water.

If the stain remains after following either of these treatments, it can not be removed.

How to Remove Red Hair Dye Stains from Clothes

Again, treat the hair dye stain as soon as possible. Begin by mixing a solution of 1 quart of water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing soap and 1 tablespoon plain non-sudsing ammonia in a plastic or glass container. Submerge the stained area and allow the stain to soak for 15 minutes. Remove the fabric from the solution and rub from the back to loosen the dye from fabric. Soak an additional 15 minutes. Rinse well before transferring to the next cleaning solution.

In a separate glass or plastic container, mix 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar. Allow the stained area to soak for 30 minutes. Launder garment as usual adding an oxygen-based bleach to your regular detergent.

How to Remove Hair Dye Stains From Upholstery and Carpet

Removing hair dye stains from upholstery and carpet that can't be soaked for hours or tossed in a washer takes a bit more patience and care. Always treat as soon as possible taking care not to spread the stain.

• Begin by using a spoon or dull knife to lift any hair dye possible from the surface of the upholstery or carpet. Try not to mash the dye any deeper into fibers.
• In a small non-metal bowl, mix a solution of two cups cool water, one tablespoon distilled white vinegar and one tablespoon dishwashing soap.
• Using a clean white cloth, sponge or cotton swab (depending on how large the stain), work this solution into the stain. Start at the outer edges and move toward the center. This will keep the stain from spreading larger and larger.
• Use as little of the solution as possible to prevent over-wetting the carpet or upholstery.
• Blot the stain with a white paper towel moving to a clean area as the dye is transferred from the fabric to the paper towel.
• Repeat as needed. You may need to leave the solution on the stain for 10 or 15 minutes before blotting especially if the stain is older.
• If the stain is not budging, dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and apply to the stained area and blot away with a clean white paper towel. Repeat until no more dye is transferred to the paper towel.
• When the stain is removed, sponge the stained area with a fresh clean white cloth and plain cool water. Blot away the water with clean white paper towels and allow to air dry.

This last tip is for white upholstery or carpet only. WARNING: This can remove the color from darker fabrics. To remove traces of hair dye on white furnishing, follow the previous steps and then dip a cotton swab in a three percent solution of hydrogen peroxide. Blot the stained area and let the hydrogen peroxide sit for two or three minutes. Blot away with a clean dry white paper towel and then sponge with a clean white cloth dipped in fresh plain water. Allow to air dry.

5 Reasons You May Want to Choose an Upholstered Bed

Upholstered beds like are everywhere, and have been popular for a while. Have you been trying to decide if one is right for you? Here are some reasons that may help you decide.

Upholstered Beds May Be More Relaxing

Upholstered beds offer a soft, padded feel unlike wood or metal beds that can be more relaxing, especially if the base is upholstered as well. The feel of fabric instead of wood or metal is softer, and the padding also gives a sense of comfort.

The extra padding in your bed will also help absorb sounds, making your be bed room feel quieter.

We need to be in a relaxed state of mind to be able to sleep. Beds play an important role in helping us get there. Turns out sleep helps us be healthier, happier, and even thinner. Lack of sleep on the other hand, can lead to depression and disease, while also making us irritable.

You Want a Dramatic Change to Your Room

Just adding an upholstered bed to your bed room can help bring about a dramatic change to your room. A soft upholstered bed provides a sense of contrast to the other, harder materials in your bed room furniture, thus making it even more of an attention grabber.

You can get a color contrast too, depending on the colors you choose, and higher headboards that are common to these types of beds also make a statement.

You Need a More Nuanced, Layered Look

Upholstered beds can be as much about subtlety as they are about drama. The color and texture of the fabric can be used to add a more nuanced and layered look.

Colors, textures, and surface embellishments like nail heads, welting, and tufting, all help to bring about a more finished and sophisticated look. You can add pattern to the mix if you want, and you can even customize and personalize the look should you choose to do that.

Upholstered Headboards Make Great DIY Projects

For all their elegance and luxurious looks, upholstered beds are a great way to get started on DIY projects. If you want to create your own look, know that they are easy enough to put together, and you will need relatively little time and few tools to put an upholstered headboard together. Even absolute newbies can get spectacular results that make it easier to get those dramatic changes or nuanced and sophisticated looks into their bedrooms.

You Get a Cozier Bed

What if you don't go to sleep the minute you get into bed? For people who like to read in bed, watch TV or do some web surfing before going to bed, an upholstered headboard provides a softer, cozier surface to lean back into. You get a soft surface to rest your head as you read or watch TV.

One Reason an Upholstered Bed May Not be Right For You

With all the great reasons mentioned above for getting an upholstered bed, there is one that makes a case for staying away from them. If you are an allergy sufferer, your best bet is to stay away from fabric covered beds.

They can catch dust, and if they are tufted, may even trap it as well unless you are very conscientious about cleaning them. Wood or metal surfaces are easier to wipe down to maintain a dust free bed.

If you must have an upholstered bed, opt for one that is covered in leather as that does not absorb dust and is easier to clean.

How to Clean Leather Furniture

Leather furniture is easy to clean and maintain. At least most of the time. Barring a few emergencies where you are better off calling a professional, you can maintain leather fairly easily. It is a very forgiving material.

While leather furniture is expensive, but the investment pays off as it can easily last a lifetime with just a little everyday care. Before looking elsewhere for tips on cleaning and maintenance, it is best to follow instruction from your manufacturer, because different types of leather furnituremay require different methods of cleaning.

However, if your leather furniture did not come with instructions:

• Try the gentlest cleaning methods first.
• Always test in an inconspicuous spot.
• Consult a professional if the stain is hard to remove.
• Use a wiping motion and don't scrub.
• NEVER use harsh chemicals, alcohol, strong detergents or abrasive cleaners to clean leather. All of these may cause irreparable damage to your leather sofa. Remember that when cleaning leather, gentler is always better, and strong abrasives cause more damage than any stain that may happen.

Everyday Cleaning and Care

• Wipe down leather furniture with a clean, soft, white cloth every week or so. Do this more frequently in a dusty environment. Why white? A white cloth ensures that you don't deposit dyes on your leather couch by mistake, and it is also easy to see if you have removed all the dirt.
• Vacuum your leather furniture from from time to time, just as you would for any other upholstery material.
• But unlike other upholstery, you can use a damp, soft cloth to remove dirt build up if you have not been cleaning it regularly. Just make sure your cleaning cloth is damp, not soaking wet.

Grease Stains

• Grease stains do not call for a damp cleaning cloth, because you will not be able to get the grease out with water. For these it is best to use a dry, soft cloth and use a blotting action. Press down to blot up as much grease from the leather surface as you can.
• Use talcum powder or cornstarch, and sprinkle on the leather surface. Allow to sit for a while and then brush away using a brush with soft bristles. You may have to repeat this process a couple of times. Do not rub. This technique also works on fabric.

Water Stains

• The best remedy is to blot with a soft cloth immediately, as soon as the spill occurs.
• If the water has dried, use a soft damp cloth and starting from the stain wipe outwards towards the edges of the cushion in all directions. Again, no scrubbing, only wipe gently. Use less and less moisture as you go outward. This technique provides a uniform effect for the entire treated leather surface, while minimizing the stain.

Ink Stains

• Ink stains on leather are among the hardest to remove, and may need to be cleaned by a professional depending on the kind of ink, and the severity of the stain. As with any other stain, fresh ink stains are easier to remove.
• Small marks, such as those from ball point pens, may disappear on their own over a period of time. You can also try cleaning smaller stains using a gentle soap solution.
• Big blobs of ink will need to be treated professionally. Do not use alcohol to clean your leather furniture, as you could potentially damage the color.

How to Remove Paint Stains From Clothes, Carpet and Upholstery

Paint stains can be water-based paint (latex, acrylic craft paint, finger paints) or oil-based paint (enamels, art oils or model craft paint). With either type of paint, follow these steps to remove the paint from clothes before it dries. If you can't treat it right away, keep the area wet until you can. These techniques are for washable fabrics (we'll get to carpet and upholstery next). For dry-clean only garments or home accessories, take to a reputable cleaner immediately.

Latex, Acrylic or Any Water-Based Paint

If there is a big blob of paint, use a dull knife or spoon to remove as much of the excess paint as possible. DO NOT use a rag or paper towel because you will push the paint deeper into the fabric fibers.

As quickly as possible from the wrong side of the fabric, flush the paint from the fibers with a forceful stream of warm water. Next, work a solution of liquid laundry detergent and water into the stain, soaping and rinsing until the stain is removed. You may need to repeat several times. Then wash the garment as usual.

If the paint has dried, you may be able to remove the paint with a bit of rubbing alcohol. Use a cotton swab and work from the outside of the stain toward the inside. Use a dull knife or the edge of a credit card to gently scrape away the paint as it loosens from the fibers. This works best on "new" paint stains that have not been set by heat. Or, try a commercial paint remover like OOPS! following the instructions carefully.

Oil-Based Enamel, Art or Model Paint

Oil-based paint must be removed from clothes while it is wet.

If it dries, it is nearly impossible to remove. So, keep it wet until you can start cleaning.

If the paint label lists a specific paint thinner to use, start with that or some turpentine. Working from the back of the fabric, place the stain over a thick pad of paper towels or old white rags. Wet the area with paint thinner and tap the area with an old spoon or scrub brush to force the paint out. Keep changing the paper towels underneath to a clean area as paint is absorbed into the towels. Be patient, this will take time.

Once the paint is removed, saturate the area with liquid detergent and work it in well. Submerge the stain into the hottest water temperature recommended for the fabric and let it soak overnight. Scrub again with some detergent and launder as usual.

Paint Stains on Carpet

It's a bit more difficult to remove paint from carpet because you can't toss it in the washer. Again, the key is removing the paint as soon as possible.

Water-based paint stains on carpet

For fresh, wet paint stains, use a dull knife, edge of a credit card or spoon to lift any excess paint away from the carpet fibers. Then use a clean, wet paper towel or white cloth to blot - NO RUBBING - away the remaining paint. Keep moving to a clean area of the towel and don't stop until the paint is gone.

For paint drips that have dried on the carpet, mix some hot water and bit of laundry or dish detergent into a solution. Use a toothbrush or soft brush to apply the mixture to the paint stain. Let it sit for five minutes to soften the paint. Grab the dull knife and begin to scrape away the paint. Blot with a clean cloth often and apply more hot water and detergent as you go. Don't rub or you may smear the stain making it worse.

If the paint is still not softening, consider using a hand-held clothes steamer to add a boost of heat. DO NOT use an iron because it can be too hot and actually melt synthetic fibers. Just be patient and keep working. Allow to dry thoroughly and then vacuum to lift fibers.

Oil-based paint stains on carpet

Oil-based paint is much more difficult to remove. If the drip is wet, blot with a clean white cloth or paper towel to absorb as much paint as possible. Use a light touch and try not to push the paint deeper in the carpet. Use a hand-held steamer to keep the paint damp and soft. Use a heavy needle or straightened paper clip to separate carpet fibers as you keep blotting, blotting, blotting.

Next, dip a clean white cloth in acetone, paint thinner or turpentine to blot away remaining paint. Be sure to test the cleaner first in a hidden spot to be sure that it doesn't remove color from the carpet. Work slowly and be patient.

As a last resort, let the stain dry and use tiny sharp scissors to trim away stained fibers. Cut as little as possible or your carpet will look bare.

Paint on Upholstery

Start with the same dull knife to remove the drips of paint. But you must know what type of fabric you have on the sofa before you can move to the next step. Take a look under the sofa cushions or the fabric skirt to locate a tag with letter codes that indicate how to clean the furniture.  Here's how to decipher the code:

• W - Sofa can be cleaned with a water-based detergent.
• S - Sofa must be cleaned with a dry-cleaning solvent.
• WS - Sofa can be cleaned with a water-based or dry-cleaning solvent.
• X - Sofa can only be cleaned by vacuuming or by a professional cleaner.
• O - Sofa is made from organic materials that require cleaning with cold water methods only. No heat.

These codes will tell you what you can and can not use to remove either type of paint stains. Obviously, you need a solvent to clean up an oil base on any type of fabric. If you have any questions, it's best to call a professional.